Time for another update. While working on the right side, I had also used tin as a putty on the weld-seams and on the newly created part to reduce the amount of polyester putty required by the painter. I had also removed all the old paint on the right side, producing bare metal where I could. There are some tight spots that are impossible to clean completely, and by the looks of it they were actually never painted. This because it is mostly on the top-inside where there would be hardly any external influence damaging the paint, yet that was the only part with only rust and no paint at all. There was some polyester putty on the right top-centre section where an old collision damage was obscured, and I took that away and straightened the part as well as I could. I did find that the bonding paste for the tin contained a very aggressive compound that caused everything in a radius of about 40 cm to spontaneously start rusting. So I made it a habit to cover metal I wasn’t working on with a thin coat of zinc-primer. Here the tin still needs to be worked back as it is too thick. As this is in a sharp hollow curve, I used a very coarse wood file for the rough shaping.
This all happened before the last picture in my previous post, but I thought it might be fun to see as well. Then I started on the left side. First I took a piece of sturdy paper to determine what part to replace. On the right the front had been dented and the whole side section had needed replacement, here the bottom part seemed healthy enough. So I ended up only replacing a section.
Then it was time to cut another piece of metal, taking it all a bit wide to allow for corrections, and put it in the mould.
And then it was hammer time again.
Now I could take a preliminary fitting before taking out the spot-welded rim that the grill would sit in. As I carefully cut it loose, I found that there was quite some tension on the metal as it came forwards about a centimetre. (or, more likely, the inner works moved backward as the front stayed straight)
Now I could fit again, but this time with the new rim being able to sit in the place where the old rim used to be. And again I found that this part curves in all directions. So I had to bend, hammer, twist an work the part to get it to follow the original as close as possible. Finally it was to my liking and I could mark where the top needed to be folded back and also mark what piece needed to be cut out of the front. As you can see by the markings below, when the rim moved to it’s original place, the whole section moved about 8 mm further out as well.
So more cutting with my dremel, and more fitting. Both on the ground and on the car.
Now it was time to mark the seam with the fender and then put it in another mould to hammer the first lip in a 90 degree angle while keeping the curves.
When that was done it was time to test one more time. This time with the grill to be sure.
And then I noticed something I had not seen before. Level with the cross-bar, there was a seam opening up between the front an the grill. Closer inspection revealed that his was actually because the grill, immaculate as it seemed, was actually dented. The outer rim had been pushed in but the cross-bar had not given in. Taking it all apart showed that there was now e serious dent in the rim. An other chore to take care of at some point.
Satisfied that it was the grill and not the front, I proceeded to first cut the old interior part away before welding the new part in place. Before I did so however, I put tin on the rims and parts that would be double plate in the future.
That had also been applied to the lip towards the fender, so now it was a matter of extending that lip on the inside and then completing the hammered lip. Of course after making sure it had a tin coating first.
After smoothing out the welds it was time again to test-mount it all.
Yes, that was definitively starting to look like something. So boldly (or in my case mostly baldly ;)) forwards. First thing was to mark an drill the holes for the bolts with witch the fender would be mounted against the front. With that done I could weld the nuts to the strip so I would not need the grip pliers. Then it was a matter of taking the piece of cardboard again for the side, roughly cut the strip, flatten it, trim it and test it. Of course I again put the edges in tin, so I would have optimal rust protection.
Then testing it on the car. Unfortunately, the whole front needs to be taken off and remounted each time, but I’m not going to cut corners now.
When I knew I had that right I could take it off and weld it. Then an other test, just to see I was still right.
Now it was time to fill up the seam with tin, clean it and while on the car for fitting welding it in place. Unfortunately I did not get around to doing that till now, so this is wat it still looks like today.
More will follow.